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Anthony Bourdain’s Les Halles Cookbook is unique among his writings because it molds his sharp, edgy storytelling with his obvious respect for traditional French cuisine. Here’s how it stands apart from Appetites (a Cookbook) and his other works:
1. It’s not fakey but an authentic chef written cookbook
Unlike Kitchen Confidential or Medium Raw, which are memoirs and essays about the restaurant scene in New York and his personal journey, Les Halles Cookbook primarily sticks to the definition of a cookbook—but with Bourdain’s unmistakable voice. The recipes are practical and there’s plenty of them from his time at Brasserie Les Halles in New York, with a focus on classic French bistro fare. Quick link to Amazon’s price for Les Halles.
2. No-nonsense, blunt instruction
Bourdain details the recipes like he’s in the kitchen with you—swearing a little, making fun of you (not too harsh), and pushing you to give the process respect. Like this: He doesn’t just say “deglaze the pan,” he tells you why and how not to screw it up. It’s for the cook who wants to feel like they’re working the line in a Parisian bistro with Bourdain yelling “Don’t screw up the sauce!” over your shoulder.
3. It reflects Bourdain as the working chef before his “dad era“
While later works reflect his evolution into a travel icon and cultural commentator, Les Halles Cookbook is very much Bourdain pre-Parts Unknown. It captures the era when he was still a full-time line cook and chef—someone who understood the grind and glory of the kitchen intimately. He was a working-class, in-the-weeds, knife-slinging French brasserie dude.
4. It champions French cuisine without pretense
This book demystifies French cooking, putting off the elitism and making it within reach and badass. He gives you recipes for things like steak frites, duck confit, and cassoulet, with tips on where to cut corners and where you absolutely shouldn’t.
See Also: a copy of Les Halles Cookbook is the most rare autographed Anthony Bourdain book known.
5. It’s a blend of manual and memoir
While it’s a cookbook, Bourdain can’t help but sneak in stories—small personal touches, kitchen anecdotes, and bits of philosophy on culinary culture, work ethic, and food. It’s both manifesto and a recipe collection.
Better (more character) than Appetites!
You can think of Les Halles as Bourdain in the kitchen trench coat, sleeves rolled, shouting “Put some backbone into it!”
Appetites is Bourdain in a band tee and apron, sipping wine, telling you, “Let’s make something delicious for the people we love.” His Appetites Cookbook is Tony cooking for Ariane (his daughter), people who he loved and his friends. This is a totally different Bourdain than him fresh off his “debut album” in 2004 when he may have still held the title of executive chef at Les Halles.
Underrated Bourdain Recipes
While the Les Halles Cookbook is known for its classics like boeuf bourguignon and steak frites, there are a handful of underrated gems that show off Bourdain’s range and personality. These are the recipes that might not have the spotlight, but absolutely slap if you give them a shot:
2. Brandade de Morue (Salt Cod and Potato Purée)
It sounds intimidating (and let’s be honest, it’s not pretty), but this silky mix of salt cod, garlic, cream, and olive oil is straight-up addictive. Warm it up, serve with crusty bread, and pretend you’re in a Marseille café.
3. Daube de Boeuf (Beef Stew with Red Wine and Vegetables)
Everyone talks about his boeuf bourguignon, but this Provencal-style beef stew with orange zest and herbes de Provence is deeply aromatic and subtly complex. It’s the kind of dish that makes your kitchen smell a bit like the Promised Land.
4. Soupe à l’Oignon Gratinée (French Onion Soup)
Okay, it’s a “known” dish, but the way Bourdain does it is what’s underrated. He’s maniacal about technique here — making proper brown stock, slowly caramelizing onions, getting that cheesy crust just right. It teaches you why it’s a classic.
5. Poulet Rôti (Roast Chicken)
It’s so simple, but he nails the perfect roast chicken with crisp skin and juicy meat. He adds little tips (like trussing and herb stuffing) that elevate it way beyond your average Sunday roast. Pure bistro magic in under an hour.
6. Civet de Lapin (Rabbit Stew)
Not for everyone, but this is where Bourdain leans into old-school French peasant food. If you can get rabbit, it’s a rich, wine-dark stew that rewards adventurous eaters. Very “meat and story” type of dish.
7. Oeufs au Plat Bressane (Eggs with Cream and Ham)
It’s eggs in cream with ham and cheese (be warned this goes against Abba Father’s Torah). It’s comfort food disguised as something elegant, and it feels totally indulgent but takes like 10 minutes. Weekend brunch staple if you know, you know.
Comment below if I may be missing something obvious on what makes this Anthony Bourdain’s standout cookbook.
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